Valletta to Split

Perched high on the imposing Sciberras Peninsula, Valletta immediately presents its massive, protective walls and vertical bastions to visitors arriving by sea. Rising to 47 metres in places, the fortifications protect lavish palaces, grand domes and illustrious gardens. Built by the Knights of St John on the narrow peninsular, Valletta is a compact, richly historical treasure trove of Baroque wonders. Ascend to reach the restful, flower-filled Upper Barrakka Gardens, where cannons fire and boom in salute at noon each day, sending echoing cracks of noise out across the waves below. View less

Recognised as 2018’s European Capital of Culture, Valletta is a fascinating and dense haven of history and intrigue. A busy, bustling capital, the breathtaking St John’s Cathedral – commissioned in 1572 – is almost concealed among its narrow streets. The relatively modest exterior is counterpointed by a staggeringly opulent, gold-leaf bathed interior, containing a Caravaggio masterpiece – the shadowy vision of the Beheading of St John. Cinematic and magnificent, Valletta has served as a filming location for Game of Thrones – but real epic history abounds on this rocky isle too. From the prehistoric and megalithic sites of the Hypogeum of Paola and Tarxien, to the fascinating War Museum at Fort St Elmo. Mdina also waits nearby, and the former medieval capital is a striking contrast to the island’s main city. Cars are barred from its streets, and it offers endlessly atmospheric old-time wanders. With a strategic positioning in the Mediterranean, Malta is a jewel that many have wrestled for over the centuries. Independence from Britain was finally achieved in 1964, but the close allegiance remains evident, with English recognised as an official language, cars driving on the left, and red post boxes and telephone gleaming in Malta’s sunshine.

Honey-coloured Siracusa is a staggering UNESCO World Heritage Site, and an extraordinary Sicilian city of immense ancient history. The modern population is a fraction of what it was at the city’s heyday around 400 BC, when Athens’ might was successfully challenged and faced down, reinforcing the city’s incredible power and status. Siracusa’s historical nucleus waits to be discovered on the compact islet of Ortygia. The city was founded here, but grew over time, spreading across to the mainland. View less

A small channel separates the two, which is now spanned by twin bridges. Wander the atmospheric streets of this time warp, to reach the shining elegance of Piazza Duomo. The Baroque cathedral rises like a giant sandcastle, and you can settle opposite to cradle a glass of wine and enjoy the view over the immaculate square – people watching before the glorious baroque façade. Dig deep into its history at the mainland’s archaeological park. Here you can wander between the remains of a Greek theatre, constructed in the 5th century BC, and now used as a grandiose, atmospheric venue for events and performances. You’ll also encounter a Roman Amphitheatre – where gladiators battled brutally, and the spectacular ear-shaped cave, which is famed for its extraordinary, secret-revealing acoustics. It was given its name – the Ear of Dionysius – by Caravaggio. Visit the legendary Fonte Arethusa, or lose yourself in the Ortygia Market – you’ll find everything here, from fresh fish, to spices and local bottles of wines. Look out for a flavour-filled jar of real Sicilian u strattu – an intense tomato paste that is the secret ingredient to many Sicilian recipes. The local ingredients are imbued with flavour by this volcanic land’s fertile soils and the firepower of Europe’s most active volcano Mount Etna, waits just to the north.

Located in the heel of Italy’s boot, Monopoli is a Puglia port town that knows how to make a splash. In fact, the words Monos and Polis mean singularly unique – and Monopoli’s special blend of part historical, part functional is most definitely that. View less The city might lack some of the more aesthetic elements of its neighbours, but that only means good things for those who do discover it: far from the tourist route you’ll be greeted with medieval churches and castles, white stone buildings (contrasting perfectly with the azure of the sea and sky) and authenticity in buckets. Founded by the Greeks in 500 BC, then taken over by the Romans (and beset by various invaders), Monopoli was – and still is – a thriving port town. It’s position in Puglia between the seas made it strategic, while its placement on the Via Traiana (which led all the way to Rome) made it prosperous. The city came under Venetian control in 1484 and much of Monopoli’s architecture can be attributed to this period. The charming Old Town is dominated by Castello Carlo V, built in 1552, while the still solid Baroque-Romanesque cathedral, built in 1693, is considered as positively modern. Like most of Italy, the food here is as important as religion. As a port town, fish and seafood are deliciously fresh. Do not miss tasting “scapece” (small fish covered in flour, deep-fried, put in layers with breadcrumbs and saffron, then soaked with vinegar) for a tasty treat that you will find nowhere else in the country.

Croatia’s crowning glory rears up vertically from the tranquil waters of the Adriatic, and Dubrovnik’s daunting fortresses town is a truly imposing sight to behold. Encircled by chunky stone walls so thick and dramatic they could have been purpose-built as a film set, this city’s unmatched old town is the setting for countless films and shows – from Star Wars to Robin Hood, Game of Thrones and every production in-between seeking a truly authentic medieval flavour.

This fantasy fortress’s walls – which are no less than 12-metres thick at places – are certainly not just for show, however. They kept Dubrovnik safe when it was a maritime republic and they were besieged as recently as 1991, when Serbian and Montenegrin forces attacked, as Yugoslavia broke apart. Fully restored now, the stone streets of the city take you through a beautiful mosaic of architectural splendour, baroque churches and splashing fountains. Tapering alleys rocket up from the central boulevard of Stradun, offering spectacular views down, but you’ll need to walk the city walls to appreciate the fortress city’s full scale. Banking up sharply to the rear, you can gaze across an ocean of terracotta roofs and church spires, clamouring together before the sparkling Adriatic. Visit the neighbouring fort of Lovrijenac, for another perspective, or swing up to Srd fortress’s glorious panorama on a cable car. Dubrovnik’s streets are crammed with eateries and candlelit tables, where couples splash wine into glasses and enjoy gnocchi mixed with creamy truffle sauces. Nearby beaches like Banje are also close by, and hidden bays reward the intrepid who venture out beyond the old town. Take sunset drinks to sit back and watch as flotillas of sea kayaks roll by, or sail on the pristine waters to explore island gems like Lokrum – where peacocks are the only permanent residents.

Sibenik is a port in south-west Croatia, on the Adriatic Sea. Among the city’s notable buildings are a Roman Catholic cathedral (begun early 15th century) and a 12th-century fort. Nearby is the Krka National Park with its cascading waterfalls, green pools and swimming holes.

Pula is the largest city in Istria, Croatia, at the southern tip of that peninsula. Like most of the region, it is known for its mild climate and unspoiled nature. The city has a long tradition of wine making, fishing, shipbuilding, and tourism and has been Istria’s administrative centre since ancient Roman days.

Split is a busy port with numerous ferries operating to and from nearby islands. It is also a popular resort with beaches, pleasant promenades and good hotels. Venetian Gothic and Renaissance houses and several medieval churches add architectural interest. As a major cultural center, Split does not lack in museums and art galleries. However, the city’s principal attraction is Diocletian’s Palace. It occupies an area of 34,680 square yards and was constructed to serve as a residence and a fortified military camp. By the Middle Ages, the palace had been enclosed within a strong wall with square corner towers, enclosing a town with narrow house-lined alleys. As the city grew, people gradually moved outside the walls and the city center shifted westward.