Piraeus to Piraeus

A city of legend, civilisation and enduring culture, Athens is a majestic and magical urban sprawl. Extraordinary elegance and grace combine with grit and graft in Greece’s capital, where highways encase ruins from antiquity, and gleaming museums and galleries stand beside concrete sprayed with edgy street art. These contrasts enhance and elevate the wonders of this 2,500-year-old city, however, which can count notable contributions to philosophy, drama and democracy, among its global legacy. Piraeus’ giant port and naval base welcome you to the edge of the Athens’ urban area.

From there it’s a simple jaunt to the centre. The majestic ancient citadel of the Acropolis dominates an elevated platform and is a constant presence as you explore the city. The wonderful remains of the columned temple of the Parthenon – which date back to the 5th century BC – stand here, representing the pinnacle of classical architecture. The nearby Acropolis Museum adds context to your visit and frames the broad views from its giant glass windows. Or rise up Mount Lycabettus, to be rewarded with perhaps Athens’ best panorama of the Acropolis sitting high over the city on its grand stage. See the marble horseshoe of the Old Olympic Stadium, where the first modern Olympics were held in 1896, for more of the city’s enduring legacy. Elsewhere, golden beaches and temples stretch out along the coastline, should you wish to explore a little further afield. Coffee is an art form to the Greeks, and it’s an unwritten rule that coffee time must never be rushed. So prepare to settle down for a couple of hours and lose yourself in a good chat. Feeling hungry – try traditional souvlaki made with sauces handed from generation to generation.

One of the most beautiful parts of this region of the Peloponnese is the plain of Laconia which extends from Sparta to the port of Gythion. The many neo-classical houses of this harbor town are built on the slopes of Mount Kourmaros. Aside from its remaining ancient theater and cultural museum, visitors can enjoy local beaches and a variety of dining opportunities. The inhabitants of Gythion claim Hercules and Apollo as its founders. According to mythology, Paris and Helen of Troy were reputed to have spent their first night together on nearby ancient Kranae, now called Marathonissi. Enlarging the natural harbor, it was used by the Spartans as their naval base and the main port of trade. Today Gythion is visited mostly for its scenic beauty and access to numerous historical sites. These include the cliffside city of Mistra, one of the finest surviving examples of Byzantine architecture in Greece, and ancient Sparta.

The tiny port of Katakolon serves primarily as the starting point for an excursion to the archaeological site of ancient Olympia. Adjacent to the port is the small village of Katakolon with a few souvenir shops and typical local restaurants. Ancient Olympia, the great Panhellenic sanctuary, is located 21 miles from the port.
The site of ancient Olympia spreads out at the foot of wooded Mount Kronos. Excavations began in 1875; they are considered one of archaeology’s great achievements. A direct consequence was the revival of the Olympic Games by Baron Pierre de Coubertin.
Today’s visitors walk among the ruins and reflect on their significance. Don’t miss the site where the Olympic flame is lit even today for the modern games.

Embedded into the slopes of the steep Lovćen mountain, and overlooking the deep blue Adriatic, the fortified town of Kotor boasts a spectacular, imposing staging that few can match. Squeezing in through the tight Bay of Kotor is a daunting and impressive approach in itself, as you arrive via the waterway of Europe’s most southerly fjord. A pearl of Montenegro and the Adriatic, Kotor’s warren-like streets drip with history and authenticity. View less

Under Venetian influence for four centuries, the city’s UNESCO World Heritage Site old town invites you to wander amid atmospheric stone-clad streets, overlooked by a sea of terracotta roofs and the double towers of the cathedral. Protected by thick stone walls – and the mountains behind – Kotor draws comparisons with another fortified Adriatic wonder in Dubrovnik. Many favour Kotor for its compact layout, smaller crowds, and authenticity, however – having been spared from shelling during Yugoslavia’s breakup. The tightknit streets here are patrolled by a slinking population of feline residents, who were adopted as the town’s mascots, after being left behind by transient trader ships. Learn of the city’s extensive heritage on the waves, in the dedicated maritime museum that is contained within Grgurina Palace. Pick your way through tight alleys of workshops and studios, walking below fresh laundry strung from windows, before settling into shiny, paved piazzas for an afternoon coffee or seafood meal. If you’re up for an aerobic challenge, tackle the 1,350 steps up the steep walls to St John’s fortress. The views over the gorgeous bay make the arduous slog worth it, as you rise past the city’s eye-catching 15th-century church bell tower.

Split is a busy port with numerous ferries operating to and from nearby islands. It is also a popular resort with beaches, pleasant promenades and good hotels. Venetian Gothic and Renaissance houses and several medieval churches add architectural interest. As a major cultural center, Split does not lack in museums and art galleries. However, the city’s principal attraction is Diocletian’s Palace. It occupies an area of 34,680 square yards and was constructed to serve as a residence and a fortified military camp. By the Middle Ages, the palace had been enclosed within a strong wall with square corner towers, enclosing a town with narrow house-lined alleys. As the city grew, people gradually moved outside the walls and the city center shifted westward.

Croatia’s Capital of Cool, Zadar is a dazzling mesh of influences and creativity. Romans founded the city before the Venetians, Austrians, French and Italians all had their say, leaving a wealth of architectural interest. Glorious turquoise-water beaches and heavenly waterfalls also lie within easy reach of this energetic city of festivals and outdoor fun. See the old town, with its robust city walls, boasting decorative stone gateways and marble streets. View less

The church of St Donatus, was built from stones pillaged from the Roman forum, while Zadar Cathedral – Dalmatia’s biggest – stands among the many architectural treats of this city, which was once an impenetrable stronghold of Venice’s republic. Head for the ‘pillar of shame’ with its chains to humiliate the criminals of a bygone time – or succumb to the tempting treats of shopping in the market. The sparkling Adriatic’s waters calls you, and Kolovare Beach is a mere ten-minute stroll from the old town. A day trip to Kornat National Park – which incorporates the Zadar Archipelago’s immaculate scattering of beach-fringed islands – or to the divine waterfalls of Plitvice Lakes National Park, will introduce you to more of Croatia’s thrilling natural beauty. The sea truly does sing here in Zadar, thanks to a unique waterfront artwork, which encapsulates the city’s playful spirit. Designed to make music when the waves wash over it, the ebb and flow of the Adriatic, plays the Sea Organ instrument like a maestro. Not far away, the Monument to the Sun is a 22-metre-wide disc, which gathers the sun’s rays during the sunny days, and releases the solar energy in the form of a magical light show after dark. Sit and admire the artwork coming to life, as one of the city’s famous sunsets plays out before you.

Losing none of its allure over the years, this floating city of canals, bridges and masks is a place of eternal beauty and enduring elegance. The lagoon of more than 100 islands is a heavenly sight, transporting visitors on a journey through time – from its Roman inception, through centuries of trade to the modern face we see today. Navigate Venice’s sparkling waterways by romantic gondola, or on cruises along wide canal boulevards. Span the Grand Canal over its iconic original crossing, the Rialto Bridge, which – with its parade of tiny shops – gives some of the city’s most endearing views. If the crowds unsettle you at any point, take two turns away from the main thoroughfares to find peace alone, amid the city’s labyrinth of tiny streets. Hurry to Piazza San Marco to be immersed in Venice’s elegant glory. Basilica San Marco transports you back to the wealthy days of the Doges, who ruled for over 1,000 years. Initially their private chapel, it’s now decorated with beautiful Byzantine mosaics. Nearby the Campanile di San Marco bell tower offers views over the higgledy-piggledy rooftops of times gone by. Just a hop skip and a jump around the corner is the Doge’s Palace, where the levels of opulence ramp up even further. Justice was meted out in this stunning Palace, with the guilty walking to the cells across the covered Bridge of Sighs. Vaporetto trips to local islands offer even more adventures to float your boat, whether it’s Murano with its world-famous glass, Torcello with its amazing Cathedrals, or Burano with its handmade lace and delightfully colourful painted houses.